MotoCalc Electric Flight Calculator
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This article by Stefan Vorkoetter originally appeared in the
August 2004 issue of
QuietFlyer
magazine and is reproduced here with permission.
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Electric Flight Rules of Thumb
I've been writing this column since late 1999, and over the years, have
mentioned many rules of thumb. A reader recently asked if these were all
written down in one place, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to do
exactly that, revise some of the older ones, and see how they work together.
None of these rules, used by themselves, will guarantee a good performing
airplane, but taken together, they almost ensure it.
Power Systems
Probably the most used rule in the history of electric flight is one originated
by well known electric flight guru Keith Shaw. The rule states that for
reasonable sport performance, a plane's power system should draw at least 40 to
50 Watts per pound (W/lb) of airplane. For good aerobatics capabilities, 70
Watts per pound is more suitable. These figures are in terms of motor input
power (Watts = Volts x Amps), and assume a motor efficiency of about 75%, which
was typical of a good cobalt motor when this rule was suggested. With a modern
brushless motor operating at 85% or better, this can be changed to 35 to 45
W/lb for sport performance, and 60 W/lb for aerobatics.
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Rules of Thumb
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It is a well established, yet incorrect, belief that the term
"rule of thumb" comes from 15th or 16th century English
common law. Supposedly, the law allowed a man to beat his wife with a
stick no larger in diameter than his thumb. I did some research
(mostly by looking at other peoples' research) and found that this was
simply untrue, although there are apparently one or two 19th and early
20th century American cases where this alleged rule was applied.
The term was apparently used longer ago than even the 15th century to
refer to tradesmen who knew their craft so well, that they would often
dispense with measuring devices such as rulers, and just use their
thumbs to make accurate measurements (thankfully, they didn't have
power saws in those days). Hence, they used a "rule of
thumb" instead of a "rule of wood".
This origin of the phrase also makes more sense, since a rule of thumb
is not a strict dictum, but just an approximation or suggestion.
I propose that we collectively start a legend that the term comes from
the radio control hobby, where many of us fly our
rule-of-thumb-designed models with our thumbs.
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Another early electric flight rule is that the power system (propeller,
gearbox, motor, speed control, and battery) should account for about 50% of the
total ready-to-fly weight of the aircraft. This rule, based on the technology
of the 198os and early 1990s was intended to help ensure adequate power and
duration. Modern nickel metal hydride (NiMH) cells have about twice the
capacity for the same weight as the cells available then, and lithium polymer
(LiPoly) cells are much lighter yet. Similarly, most brushless motors are
lighter than a brushed motor of the same power output. This means that the same
performance can be achieved with a power system that represents 25% to 40% of
the ready-to-fly weight.
Batteries
A number of years back, former Demystifying Electrics columnist Matthew
Orme proposed a simple rule for sport model battery packs: there should be
approximately one nickel cadmium (NiCd) cell for each 50 square inches of wing
area. This rule was intended for models powered by Sub-C sized cells, and if I
remember correctly, either the 1900SCRC or RC2000 were the state-of-the-art at
that time. Having chosen the battery pack, one could then apply the other rules
to choose the motor, gearbox, and propeller.
A suggestion for full-throttle current draw was that models powered by Sub-C
sized cells should draw about 25 Amps, and those powered by AE or AA cells
should draw about 10 Amps. The 25 Amp limit was to ensure adequate flight
duration, whereas the 10 Amp limit was to prevent cell damage. Modern 3300mAh
NiMH Sub-C cells can provide the same durations at 40 Amps, although the
smaller cells are still best kept at 10 Amps. LiPoly cells have specific
current limits suggested by the manufacturer.
Propellers and
Gearboxes
Choosing the right battery and motor will not guarantee a plane that performs
well (or even flies at all). Having determined the required power level, an
appropriate propeller and possibly a gearbox must be selected to turn that
motor output power into something that can move the plane.
The first rule in this area concerns pitch speed, which is the speed that the
propeller would move through the air if the air were a solid material. It is
approximately the speed that the air leaves the back of the spinning propeller.
The rule states that the pitch speed should be about 2.5 to 3 times the
aircraft's stalling speed (the speed below which it cannot fly - more on this
later). Pitch speed in miles per hour is equal to rpm x pitch x 0.000947, where
pitch is measured in inches. If the pitch speed is too low (i.e. much less than
2.5 times the stalling speed), then the propeller becomes inefficient at high
speeds. If it is too high, the propeller is inefficient at low speeds.
The
rule needs to be modified somewhat for non-sport models: electric
sailplanes should have a pitch speed of 2 to 2.5 times the stall
speed, and 3D models about 1.5 to 2 times the stall speed.
Another
factor is static thrust. This is the amount of pull that the power
system provides when the plane is stationary. In general, a model
should have static thrust of 1/4 to 1/2 of the plane's weight.
Sailplanes that are to make rapid high-angle climbs benefit from
higher thrusts, as do 3D models (which require thrust greater than
weight in order to be able to hover).
Keep
in mind that what really matters is the thrust provided when the
plane is moving, but this is hard to measure. Thus, any rules
regarding static thrust should be used in conjunction with the pitch
speed rule appropriate for the model.
Often,
with a given motor and battery, it is not possible to produce the
desired combination of thrust and pitch speed, in which case adding a
gearbox can help matters by allowing the use of a larger, more
efficient, propeller. Of course, there is a rule of thumb that can be
used to select the right propeller for a given gear ratio. First,
choose the direct-drive propeller that gives an appropriate pitch
speed. For example, for a particular high-revving motor, this might
be an 8x3. Multiply the diameter by the square root of the gear
ratio, and multiply the pitch by the gear ratio. For example, if
using a 3:1 gearbox, the 8x3 propeller would become a 14x9. This will
allow the motor (not the propeller) to turn at the same rpm, produce
the same pitch speed, and far more static (and in-flight) thrust.
A
final rule regarding propellers for sport models is that the diameter
to pitch ratio should be somewhere between 2:1 and 1:1 (for example,
8x4, 8x5, 8x6, 8x7, and 8x8 fall into this range). Somewhere in the
middle is usually best. Used in conjunction with the previous rule,
it lets you choose an appropriate gear ratio.
Motor Timing
Like
a gasoline engine which has to have the relation between the piston
movement and the spark plug firing properly set, a brushed electric
motor requires the brushes to be properly positioned relative to the
magnets for optimal operation for the conditions (voltage, current,
and load).
The
simplest method, known as the 10% rule, was suggested by Bob Boucher
of Astroflight. First, adjust the motor to neutral timing by running
it with no propeller while measuring the current, and turning the
end-bell until the current is minimized. Next, rotate the end-bell
opposite to the direction of the motor's rotation until the no-load
current increases by 10% of the expected full-load current.
This
is not a 100% perfect method, but then few rules of thumb are. It
will however get you close enough for all but the most demanding
purposes.
Aerodynamics
Earlier,
we talked about pitch speed versus stall speed. How do you find out
the stall speed? Using a rule of thumb of course. A plane's stall
speed in mph is approximately equal to 4 times the square root of the
wing loading in ounces per square foot. This rule applies to both
models and full scale aircraft. For example, my Sig LT-25 has 5
sq.ft. of wing, and weighs 105 oz, for a wing loading of 21 oz/sq.ft.
This gives a stall speed of about 18 mph. A full scale Cessna 152 has
160 sq.ft. of wing, and weighs 1,670 lbs (26,720 oz) fully loaded,
for a wing loading of 167 oz./sq.ft. This would put the stall speed
at 52 mph (the actual stall speeds are 55 mph flaps up, and 49 mph
flaps down).
Wing
loading itself is not sufficient to indicate how a model will fly.
The size of the aircraft has to be factored in (a model with the 167
oz./sq.ft. wing loading of the full scale Cessna 152 would fly like a
brick). A measure that is indicative of flying qualities is cubic
wing loading, which is computed by raising the wing area to the 1.5
power, and dividing by the weight (if your calculator can't do powers
but has a square root key, first cube the wing area by multiplication
and then take the square root). Table 1 shows some typical cubic wing
loadings for various classes of aircraft.
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Type of Model
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Cubic Loading (oz./cu.ft.)
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Sailplane or Park Flyer
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5 to 7
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Trainer
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7 to 13
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Sport
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13 to 20
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Pylon
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20 to 30
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My
LT-25 has a cubic wing loading of 9.4 oz./cu.ft. which puts it in the
trainer category. A full scale Cessna 152 has a cubic loading of
about 13 oz./cu.ft., which puts it at the high end of the trainer
category (not surprisingly, it's one of the most popular full scale
trainers).
Miscellaneous
There
have been a few rules of thumb over the years that don't fall into
any particular category.
Electric
model power systems can generate a lot of heat, and unlike in a glow
powered model, the heat isn't all generated up front out in the
breeze. This necessitates cooling air inlets and exits. Because the
air expands as it is heated, and to ensure that all the air coming in
can get out, the total area of the exits should be about three times
the area of the inlets. I don't always follow this rule, but it's a
good idea to do so in high power models.
As
a modeler in the northern half of North America, there are times of
the year where I fly my models off of snow. As a result, I've done a
lot of experimenting with skis, and have come up with a rule that
states that there should be about 14 square inches of ski per pound
of model weight (or slightly less than one square inch per ounce).
This size minimizes the aerodynamic effects of the skis, yet holds
the model up on most snow surfaces.
Finally,
none of these rules will do any good if you crash the model because
you can't tell which way is up. From both my experience and that of
other modelers, I can safely say that it can be easy to lose
orientation of the model, and then crash it because you've got up and
down mixed up. The best cure for this is a color scheme that is light
on top and dark on the bottom. This is in agreement with our
experiences that it's generally darker underneath objects. All-white
or transparent schemes can be very aesthetically pleasing, but hard
to fly.
Wrapping Up
These
are most of the rules of thumb that I have made use of during my
electric flight career. Keep in mind that they are not hard and fast
rules. Some can be ignored in some cases. Others are almost essential
to follow, but following them doesn't guarantee success. However,
used together, they can go a long way toward achieving electric
flight bliss.
Other Articles of Interest
If you found this article useful, you may also be interested in:
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Although every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and
reliability, the information on this web page is presented without
warranty of any kind, and Stefan Vorkoetter assumes no liability for direct or
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The text and images of this article are Copyright © 2004 by
Kiona Publishing, and are reproduced here with permission. All rights
reserved.
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